Helix Lucorum Snails
Helix lucorum are a forest-dwelling snail from Turkey and the surrounding old-forest regions. They are large, slow, and quiet creatures that are active mainly at night. While they are legal to own in Michigan, they may not cross state lines or be mailed, so these can only be picked up in person by Michigan residents. Their care, while specific, is not difficult.
**All 2024 babies have found homes. We will not be raising more clutches for several years, but are leaving this page as a care info reference.
**All 2024 babies have found homes. We will not be raising more clutches for several years, but are leaving this page as a care info reference.
Helix Lucorum Care
Cage Requirements:
For now, your baby lucorum snail can live in the container it came home in, but it will eventually need more space. You can make a small bin enclosure for a few dollars, out of any plastic shoebox sized container. As adults, they will need at least a 10g; we use a 29g to fit the bedding.
Lucorum snails need 6-8” of soft substrate which mimics old forest topsoils, like tree fern soil mixes. Coco coir is too coarse to be substituted; you will find they mostly hibernate and stop eating if this is the majority of bedding. You can, however, mix coir more heavily in the bottom of the substrate level, to pad it out. You will want a drainage layer at the bottom, a layer of weed mat to prevent the soil from going down into the drainage layer, 6-8” of woody topsoil, and plenty of moss/dead leaves on top. If you only have one snail, you can plant the tank with snail-safe plants, but be aware they may chew on them. If you want to decorate the enclosure, I would recommend cloth or plastic plants from an art/hobby store.
For the top 5-6” we use a mix of 20% tree fern soil, 30% baked and finely crumbled hardwood leaves (mainly oak and maple, but fruit tree leaves like apple or mulberry or something would be fine too), 20% baked topsoil from a garden center (sift for large chunks of clay or rocks and remove), 10% small orchid bark chips, 10% coco coir, and 10% sphagnum moss. If you’re interested in buying premixed soil from me, please drop me a line well in advance so I can prepare it. For the bottom 2-3”, we use 40% coco coir, 20% sifted/baked topsoil, 30% small orchid bark chips, 10% sphagnum moss, because it's cheaper than the tree fern soil.
Hides can be provided for sleeping, though they generally prefer sleeping on walls or under soil. You don’t need to provide them a feed dish, their food can go directly onto the soil. Misting the walls of the enclosure once a day will provide humidity and drinking water, but they should have a shallow dish of water they can get into, like a small plastic or silicone potting saucer. If hides are provided, give at least one hide per snail; a pot on its side works great. The enclosure should have airflow, but be humid, with gently damp soil (not soaking, not dry). Room temp is mainly fine, but a small heat source (low-watt heat lamp, small patch of heat tape) that gives them an 80F zone to warm up in is very helpful for adults. Babies do better a little chillier, and will be fine at room temp.
Social:
They do get along fine with others adults of their species. Springtails and small isopods do fine in their enclosure and are beneficial for keeping away mold.
Feeding:
They NEED a source of calcium (preferably cuttlebone as it is soft, but you can additionally offer, clean eggshells, seashells, limestone chunks, etc) ALWAYS in their cage, separate from their food source so they don’t HAVE to eat it unless they need it. Leafy greens (kale, spinach, mustard greens, fresh tree leaves from safe species, lettuces excluding iceberg, etc)and vegetables (carrot, sweet potato, eggplant, and squashes are all favorites, water-soaked algae tablets are rich in nutrients) will make up the majority of their diet. Feed a small amount every 1-2 days in the evening, and clean out uneaten portions to prevent mold. Protein (f/t or dried bloodworms, raw shrimp/fish, fish food, or raw eggs are good sources) should be given once a week if they’re under 3yo, and adults once every other week. Avoid giving onions, celery, processed starch (pasta, bread, etc), foods with solanine (nightshade family like real potatoes, tomato plants), high acid foods (like tomato fruits or citrus), and salty foods.
For now, your baby lucorum snail can live in the container it came home in, but it will eventually need more space. You can make a small bin enclosure for a few dollars, out of any plastic shoebox sized container. As adults, they will need at least a 10g; we use a 29g to fit the bedding.
Lucorum snails need 6-8” of soft substrate which mimics old forest topsoils, like tree fern soil mixes. Coco coir is too coarse to be substituted; you will find they mostly hibernate and stop eating if this is the majority of bedding. You can, however, mix coir more heavily in the bottom of the substrate level, to pad it out. You will want a drainage layer at the bottom, a layer of weed mat to prevent the soil from going down into the drainage layer, 6-8” of woody topsoil, and plenty of moss/dead leaves on top. If you only have one snail, you can plant the tank with snail-safe plants, but be aware they may chew on them. If you want to decorate the enclosure, I would recommend cloth or plastic plants from an art/hobby store.
For the top 5-6” we use a mix of 20% tree fern soil, 30% baked and finely crumbled hardwood leaves (mainly oak and maple, but fruit tree leaves like apple or mulberry or something would be fine too), 20% baked topsoil from a garden center (sift for large chunks of clay or rocks and remove), 10% small orchid bark chips, 10% coco coir, and 10% sphagnum moss. If you’re interested in buying premixed soil from me, please drop me a line well in advance so I can prepare it. For the bottom 2-3”, we use 40% coco coir, 20% sifted/baked topsoil, 30% small orchid bark chips, 10% sphagnum moss, because it's cheaper than the tree fern soil.
Hides can be provided for sleeping, though they generally prefer sleeping on walls or under soil. You don’t need to provide them a feed dish, their food can go directly onto the soil. Misting the walls of the enclosure once a day will provide humidity and drinking water, but they should have a shallow dish of water they can get into, like a small plastic or silicone potting saucer. If hides are provided, give at least one hide per snail; a pot on its side works great. The enclosure should have airflow, but be humid, with gently damp soil (not soaking, not dry). Room temp is mainly fine, but a small heat source (low-watt heat lamp, small patch of heat tape) that gives them an 80F zone to warm up in is very helpful for adults. Babies do better a little chillier, and will be fine at room temp.
Social:
They do get along fine with others adults of their species. Springtails and small isopods do fine in their enclosure and are beneficial for keeping away mold.
Feeding:
They NEED a source of calcium (preferably cuttlebone as it is soft, but you can additionally offer, clean eggshells, seashells, limestone chunks, etc) ALWAYS in their cage, separate from their food source so they don’t HAVE to eat it unless they need it. Leafy greens (kale, spinach, mustard greens, fresh tree leaves from safe species, lettuces excluding iceberg, etc)and vegetables (carrot, sweet potato, eggplant, and squashes are all favorites, water-soaked algae tablets are rich in nutrients) will make up the majority of their diet. Feed a small amount every 1-2 days in the evening, and clean out uneaten portions to prevent mold. Protein (f/t or dried bloodworms, raw shrimp/fish, fish food, or raw eggs are good sources) should be given once a week if they’re under 3yo, and adults once every other week. Avoid giving onions, celery, processed starch (pasta, bread, etc), foods with solanine (nightshade family like real potatoes, tomato plants), high acid foods (like tomato fruits or citrus), and salty foods.
As with any animal that is non-native to the USA, please do not ever release adults or babies into the wild. If you find you can no longer keep your snail for any reason, I will take it and/or any offspring back, no questions asked.